On almost every trip, we try to book a meal at an upscale restaurant. We aren’t food snobs, we’ll eat street food and sandwiches without a single complaint, but we like fancy food too. I love collecting cookbooks, reading about food, experimenting with new recipes, and watching shows like Top Chef, Iron Chef, Chef’s Table, and The Great British Bake Off. My Netflix queue has quite a few foodie shows that I haven’t watched yet (David Chang, I’m not ignoring you on purpose, I’ll eventually find the time).

I had researched some restaurants in the Porto area and Casa De Chá Da Boa Nova was listed on several websites that I trust (Condé Nast, Eater, and Michelin are some examples). The building is a national monument situated on the coast about 10 miles outside of Porto and it has 2 Michelin stars. We don’t pick a restaurant just because of its Michelin status, but the more I read, the more I wanted to try it and nearly every picture on the internet from location to food looked incredible.

Before making a reservation, we had several conversations with our guests because everyone at the table has to agree on the same tasting menu: would we indulge in 6 (probably not), 12 (maybe, but would we wonder what could have been?), or 21 (can we make it through?) courses. After a bit of debate, we agreed to the 21 course gastronomic feat. The price point may cause sticker shock for some: 21 courses is €265 per person and a wine pairing is an additional €200. These costs are mid-range to what we have paid at similar establishments in New York, Los Angeles, Oregon and Washington.

After our Tuk Tuk tour, we headed to the restaurant for dinner. I remember thinking it would likely be a once in a lifetime visit. I’m not sure why, maybe because the north of Portugal seems worlds away from Olhão where we live now. When we arrived for our 8:45 pm reservation it was quite dark and the beach’s rocky cliffs were a bit difficult to see from our table. Despite this, it was impossible to deny a feeling of immediate connection to the water since the restaurant is practically perched on the beach. There was a yin and yang ambiance; the interior has clean, modern lines and buttoned up service in juxtaposition to the dramatic, unpredictable and turbulent Atlantic Ocean outside.

I was immediately impressed with the service. The waitstaff worked in unison like a dance troupe that has performed together for years. I am happiest when formal service is also friendly and staff is allowed to let their unique personalities shine through, this was definitely the case at Casa de Chá da Boa Nova. Our group opted for wine by the bottle which we asked the sommelier to choose, instead of wine by the glass pairings. I have had dining experiences with course/glass pairings where I am barely ambulatory by the end of the meal (sometimes from too much alcohol, and sometimes from too much food and wine). We thought wine by the bottle was a prudent choice, we wanted to remember the experience!

The menu arrived, we each received a personal copy, and the 21 courses or “moments” commenced. The anticipation was palpable. The menu was seafood forward and often featured traditional dishes or Portuguese ingredients executed in a modern way; nearly every course was a work of art. There were some components working table side and even some interactive elements (we LOVE a good game). Flavors were on point, execution of food was spot on, there was an absence of low points, and nearly every expectation was exceeded by a mile.

Although many of the courses were tastes, bites, or small plates, after multiple dessert rounds I had reached my limit. I audibly groaned when the last dessert offering rolled around. In all, this was honestly one of the best fancy restaurant experiences I have had to date, I felt completely cared for and content. A shout out to cousin Susie and Rachel for being great company during dinner. The cost was well worth it and I left this beautiful restaurant quietly vowing to plan another excursion up north so Andrew and I could schedule another dinner date here.

When we returned home to Olhão we told our friend Jorge about our trip to Porto and specifically this restaurant. We were surprised to learn that he grew up less than 1 km from there. He frequented the location in his youth and studied in the tea house long before it was a fancy restaurant. He went to this beach and the adjacent lighthouse all the time. His memories of the area made the experience even more special for me. Maybe one day Andrew, Jorge, and I will find the time to return together for another dinner on this beach.