When we wrote up our last trip to Coimbra we mentioned that we hadn’t seen some of the historic highlights of the city, specifically the University.

During the planning stages of Elsa’s trip we explained that Portugal (for a first time tourist) has two major cities (Lisbon and Porto), the sunny beach filled Algarve region, and quite a few medium/large cities as possible destinations. On a monthlong trip or a return visit we’d recommend adding in less populated locales but each of them would add a half day or more to your agenda. Elsa was game to meet our friends so we picked Coimbra from the list.

Our main destinations for the trip were the Museu Nacional de Machado de Castro and Coimbra University. I added a third highlight by nearly getting our rental car stuck going the wrong way down a one way street that was not really meant for cars to navigate. Thankfully a delivery driver on a moped helped navigate me out with only one nasty scratch on a door panel, and more thanks that we were all distracted and none of us took pictures of this embarrassing fiasco!

After a quick lunch we went to buy our museum tickets and immediately got reminded of our advancing years by the attendant who defaulted to giving us a family discount (I could have explained that we were cousins but it was an excellent discount).

The museum is a national monument and an amazingly diverse spectacle showcasing the region’s history with a focus on religious artifacts and statues. The tour is split between three sections, the first of which is a Roman cryptoporticus dating back to the mid 1st century. This section was given a bonus spooky atmosphere by a ceramic installation of creepy deformed heads that peeked out at you from every nook and cranny.

Between the car accident and my advancing age I neglected to have a fully charged phone going into the tour so I have limited photos of the other two buildings which house a colossal collection of religious statuary and art. The second section is housed in a 12th century bishop’s palace and things wrap up in a modern museum structure.

If you are in Coimbra and have the time I highly recommend touring the museum. The statues (not pictured) and catacombs alone made the trip worthwhile.

After the museum we met with Randy and Corinne and enjoyed a nice dinner before tucking into our lodging. The next morning we had a guided tour of the University of Coimbra. We found parking by following the information on the tickets and wound our way up the hill to the University proper.

The University is one of the oldest in the world, founded in 1290 and moved from Lisbon to Coimbra in 1308. It is an UNESCO World Heritage Site and obviously an inspiration for Hogwarts, even if certain authors deny that obvious fact. Our visit was during summer break so we didn’t see that many students who choose to wear the traditional uniforms (see: Hermione Granger school uniform for an example).

The tour starts in the modern section of the university, built under the rule of Salazar these stark buildings would fit in any pre-collapse Soviet city. Lampposts and buildings are respectively decorated with symbols and colors representing the schools of education and the famous people who helped advance knowledge of the associated topics.

Next you pass through a portcullis into the historic and administrative part of the school. Graduates climb this entrance after their ceremony and tie a piece of clothing onto the gate.

Built up over centuries the buildings are a mix of different architectural and decorative styles.

Twisting through the various buildings offered up interesting sights galore.

There was even a grand sorting room where large events were held!

Apparently the trees from the courtyard were damaging the Roman ruins beneath the university (sometimes it feels like most of Portugal sits atop Roman ruins!) so they ripped them all out leaving a dirt and cement monstrosity.

One of my favorite rooms housed miniature models off all the university buildings and was adorned with art of each headmaster.

Next we headed to the baroque Joanina library, considered one of the most beautiful in the world, where we would not be allowed to take pictures of the main halls. We were told the library rules (tours are on an extremely strict schedule for example) in the old University prison housed below the library itself. No longer used to house poorly behaved students it was currently being used as a modern art installation. Going up into the library proper we also got to see some of the reconstruction in progress.

One interesting fact about the library is that it houses bats which keep it clear of book eating insects. Each night all the intricate tables are covered with guano catchers and each morning staff has to clean up after the non-housetrained inhabitants.

The tour concluded with the university chapel which houses an organ built for an actual cathedral. Staff has to be extremely careful because at full volume the organ would blow the windows out of not just the chapel but other nearby buildings.

If you have an extra day next time you are in Portugal I would recommend both of these tours and some time exploring Coimbra, but only if you’ve already had a chance to stop in and visit with us first!