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Walking In Our Bairro (Neighborhood)


I want to try and touch on a few of the little things that catch my attention now, but probably won’t in a few months. Today as I walked round our neighborhood with Michelle I tried to take pictures of things that are very commonplace – but slightly different than the suburb we previously lived in.

This is the view as you step out our front door and look to the right (West). We live on a one way street and people are very considerate when parking their cars. We always try to walk on the sidewalk of course, there are many electric vehicles that will sneak up on you VERY quickly if you meander in the roadway. The sidewalk here is plenty wide to walk along with your pet by your side, but not wide enough for two people abreast. Also, note how the doors and windows open directly onto the sidewalk. People will enjoy the afternoon sun by leaning out their open window – which has oft caught me by surprise when rounding a corner since their face will be inches from mine.

Stones displaced for city work.

Olhão’s recorded history goes back as far as 1378, but the town was officially chartered in 1826. Either way, it is quite an ancient city and that stands out quite clearly when looking at the sidewalks. They are made of hand placed irregular stones. When municipal work has to be done beneath them it can be quite discombobulating since you quickly realize that they are magically suspended above great holes that contain all the normal underworkings of a city. You also get to see how the municipal workers carefully pile up all the stones so that a technician can put them back (by hand!) after the work is completed.

Most of the city wasn’t built to accommodate vehicles and that is most apparent when you walk down very skinny streets where the “sidewalk” can diminish down to about 6 inches on just one side of the street. That third picture with teeny sidewalks is a place many people walk (it’s the fastest way to a grocery store we use regularly) and whenever a vehicle goes by everyone squishes up against the buildings with a couple inches to spare.

Bad pet owners (like everywhere).

When you start traveling through our city on foot you will see A LOT of the sidewalks. They have dips and divots, you’ll catch your toe on a stone that sits a bit high, you’ll stumble at an unexpected curb. You will be forced to keep a diligent eye as you maneuver step by step. It’s very similar to hiking on a rocky trail. Looking down will also help you avoid the doggie landmines that are unfortunately quite frequent on certain streets.

When you do look up you’ll see cords that provide electricity, internet, and whatever else strung up along the building facades. Some neighborhoods have very neat bundles while others are rat’s nests that appear to be pure chaos.

Pretty good cable control here!

Crossing the street should be done at a crosswalk, as pictured, whenever possible. Most drivers are good about stopping but diligence is required nonetheless. Knowing when to cross is almost a game in and of itself. Remember how sidewalks range from lovely promenades to almost nothing? That change can happen between a couple blocks. Or sometimes there is a busy cafe that will completely take over the sidewalk area. Knowing what type of walking zone is ahead will dictate when you should cross the street, sometimes you should do this a couple blocks before you have any visual indication about the upcoming change.

It took me a couple days to realize the street signs are placards right on buildings, a small difference but one that made getting around quite difficult for a bit.

Above are two recycling stations, found every few blocks throughout the city. I didn’t take a pic of a dumpster station (imagine two to four dumpsters sitting next to each other on a corner). There is no “garbage pickup” like we were used to in our stateside residences. You grab your refuse and haul it to the nearest appropriate receptacles. Our garbage drop off is about a block from the house and recycling is two blocks away.

I’m going to do a detailed post about the amazing Olhão graffiti, but here are a few examples I see almost every day. I thought “Fuck Farense” was a grand political statement for about two weeks, after Googling it I realized it has to do with a soccer rivalry.

Now a few quick pics, see the captions for info!

Igreja = church, this is one of three near our house.
A nice view of different trees in the area, along with a billboard.
The railroad tracks, about three blocks south of our house.
A cafe (on the bottom right of the building), it’s about three blocks from our house.
Ruins, for sale! Very common on almost every block.
Shitty scooters (usually rented by tourists), they rarely make it to our neighborhood thankfully.
Our local board game store, about half a kilometer from the house.
Stray (or loose) cats, found all over town.
The huge tree that marks the major roundabout near our house (near our recycling).
The little park we walk the dogs to, across from the huge tree!
The “prison” near our recycling area. I have no other info. at this time.
Escola Dr Alberto Iria, looking the other way from the previous pic.
The stadium just past the little park and the school. Can’t wait to see a game in person!
Food and water are left out for animals all over the city (Basil loves this and gets in trouble for it).
On the tower in the distance is a massive bird’s nest – I’ll get some better pics for a future post.
Rooftop and balcony dogs are very common – and love to yell about what they are seeing in the city.

And I think I’ll end it there. Those are some of the very common sights we’ll see on one of our daily walks. The weather has turned from too hot to OMG we are in paradise so we will be walking quite a bit in the upcoming weeks. I’ll try to get some better pics so I can go into more detail about a few things, post in the comments if you are interested in anything in particular!

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8 responses to “Walking In Our Bairro (Neighborhood)”

    • I’m pretty sure I would die trying to scooter over the cobblestones here… and I’ve heard rumor that he isn’t the most elegant rider so it should be a hard pass for Joe.

      I think it’s really interesting seeing a city solely (hah) on foot. You really start to appreciate different things about the environment.

  1. Good job looks like you guys are enjoying yourself thanks for the update and pictures have fun be safe take care love uncle Joe

    • Thanks Uncle Joe! We’ve really been enjoying things so far, even though we are definitely still in the “learning and setting up phase”. I hope life is treating you well.

      Be safe, much love, Andrew.

  2. I am so glad to see this! I have been thinking about you two and wondering how it is doing. What an amazing little city! I find it interesting that the school is next to the prison. Happy Birthday!

    • It’s going pretty great! I think it’s actually a jail, holds about 60 inmates. I don’t disagree that it’s placement is odd, but maybe that’s just how it has to be since it’s a very densely packed city.

      We’ve been hoping your new job is bringing you happiness!!! Thanks so much for the b-day wishes.

    • I remember walking in Medford and we’d avoid areas where the sidewalk ended. Now we regularly walk into busy streets because we are on busy sidewalks the width of 1/2 a person and have to pass each other.

      We spent the last two afternoons playing games at the game store – had a blast!!

      Can’t wait for you to come over to this side of the pond.

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