We have mentioned traveling to Lisbon in multiple posts but haven’t really dedicated a full write up to Portugal’s capital so far. The sun was setting on Elsa’s visit and the three of us made our way into the city. In order to hit the highlights we decided on a comprehensive Tuk Tuk tour as one of our main activities and Elsa chose our second major destination, the massive aquarium on the city’s outskirts.
In House Hunting we briefly said that Porto pulled on our heartstrings in contrast to Lisbon but didn’t really expound on that sentiment. I’ll preface by saying that as a tourist the city definitely deserves a day or two of exploration. Portugal’s history is apparent around almost every corner. Beware though, since EVERY tourist has the same idea, most districts are bursting with souvenir shops and chain restaurants.
When we were visiting different regions thinking “would this make a good home for us?” we consistently said that Lisbon felt like an awesome metropolitan European city but lacked a distinct Portuguese feel. Cost of living is also extremely high and some parts of the city, even tourist areas, can make you feel unsettled. The panhandlers are a bit too aggressive, hashish sellers brazen and insistent, and large groups of loiterers stare at passing tourists as though they are shopping for an appropriate victim. There are atmospheric conditions that many say make the sunlight in Lisbon romantic, maybe that phenomenon has a contrary effect on me.
Nonetheless, Lisbon is home to one of the absolute best places I’ve ever experienced, Tejo Bar. We dragged Elsa along for our second visit to this musical extravaganza. It was a bit early in the night so the music was sparse and the clientele young and talkative in that brain numbing way Gen Z’s can converse at length about absolutely nothing. Soon the Euro-Tripping 20-somethings left for places more dance friendly and a calmer crowd filled the 25 or so cramped seats.
Tejo Bar is an extemporaneous collaborative musical show where local (and foreign) acts show up and play a song or two before being joined by other musicians or the house crew for a jam session (as far as we can tell every employee plays an instrument or sings). For example a songwriter/pianist was there with a soul singer who had an amazing voice. They played together, but later in the night a guitarist was killing it and the staff pulled the singer in for an unbelievable set of songs. Groups of musicians who have never met before are mashed together in crazy combinations and this consistently creates unforgettable music.
Tip: If you are thinking of heading to Tejo Bar we recommend getting there early since seating is limited (9 or 9:30). Things will be slow at first but just enjoy a snack and a glass or two of wine and wait for the show to really begin around 11. The room is cramped, you’ll be sitting shoulder to shoulder with a stranger at pretty much any seat. No pictures, no videos, no clapping (rub your hands together to show appreciation). Be patient with the staff, they will come around and get your order when they have a chance. If you just want a wine or beer you can usually order at the counter between sets. There is a small cover charge, but it is totally worth it if the rest of my description didn’t turn you away.
After bingeing on amazing Portuguese food for most of the trip we decided to treat ourselves to a traditional brunch at Seventh Brunch Lisboa. Portions were ginormous, which hit the spot and prepared us for the upcoming five hours on a Tuk Tuk.
The beginning of the tour sped through many attractions at a high pace, and this was exactly what we had hoped for. Grand cathedrals, Roman ruins, people trying to pose for Instagram shots while nearly getting hit by trams, etc.
The city also has some stunning large graffiti including multiple pieces of trash art, including the raccoon I caught on film here. I also added a few fun things I saw around the city during the tour, even though they may not have been official sights.
One of my favorite stops was Santo Amaro Chapel, situated atop one of Lisbon’s many hills. This quiet spot was tranquil and nearly deserted. The chapel is covered in beautiful tiles, surrounded by pomegranate trees, and festooned with intricate designs related to lost and broken limbs. This was an absolute treat.
Another more traditional stop was the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos, a monastery with amazing tiled grounds around it and an intricate interior.
Pastel de nata is a well known Portuguese treat, and some say Pastéis de Belém make the best in the world. It was fun getting a behind the scenes look at the production line but I’m not ready to commit to giving them top ranks as I’ve had some pretty great pastéis at other places.
The last major stop of note was the Monument to the Discoveries, a giant statue depicting 32 famous Portuguese explorers and cultural characters.
We had a few other quick stops as we were brought back to our AirBnb. The banter with our guide wasn’t quite as great as our Porto Tuk Tuk Tour, but I’d still wholeheartedly recommend doing one if you want to experience the big stops in a city without having to plan or navigate on your own.
We saw some of the city at night as we walked to and from our evening meal (sorry, you’ll have to tune in to a future Lisbon foodie post for our thoughts on that).
As I mentioned, Elsa chose the Oceánario de Lisboa and the Telecabine for her final adventure. If your group includes a sea life lover this should definitely be on your destination list in Lisbon. There is the world’s “largest nature aquarium” tank (take that as you may) at the center of the building. You circle around that tank for two stories and each corner has a separate habitat that houses fish and wildlife from a different climate region of the earth.
There were interesting fishy things all around and the main tank is jaw dropping as you realize how huge it actually is. The amphibian exhibit was a Where’s Waldo? of frogs and the whole thing involved lots of dodging around groups of rambunctious children. The informational posters also helpfully say when feeding times are which allowed us to loiter and see the penguins being fed (adorable and totally worth it).
I took too many pictures of fish and didn’t have any of the Telecabine ride. Basically it is a long cable car that goes between the aquarium and another random part of town. Most people take it there and back just to enjoy a nice alternate view of the city. You can buy the ticket along with the aquarium access and get a bit of a discount making it a nice bonus half hour diversion.
Tip: It was very hot inside the cable car so if the temperature is 85ºF or higher, I might consider skipping that part of the activity.
We still have lots of exploring to do in Lisbon so when YOU plan your visit to Portugal we’ll be sure to spend some time with you there!
